Visit Todos Santos Before It Becomes the Next Tulum

When I first visited Tulum 10 years ago, I was immediately taken by the rustic charm of this now-famous seaside village on the Riviera Maya in Mexico. It was a quaint fishing village with dirt roads and Mayan ruins. I was captivated by the friendly, beautiful locals. But today, Tulum has become a popular travel destination overrun by tourists. More than 2,000 hotel rooms will be added in 2024, and an international airport is scheduled to open in December, signaling a different future for this destination

I’ve been craving what Tulum once delivered, including a slower pace, wide open terrain, no pool aerobics, an LGBTQ+ welcoming community, and that Mexican beach vibe that calms my nerves and feeds my soul. My husband and I found it all in Todos Santos on the Pacific Coast of Baja California Sur, about an hour’s drive north of Los Cabos or southwest of La Paz, Mexico. We visited the town with a diverse group of friends: gay men, lesbians, straights, singles, and couples.

Charming Surf Town

Todos Santos (“All Saints” in English) is a little oasis town surrounded by the Baja desert.  An underground aquifer keeps the valley green and lush all year round. Native people of Baja California Sur, Mexico, the Guaycura, lived in the area extending south from near Loreto to Todos Santos and prospered for years prior to Spanish colonization. 

This little town has been popular among surfers and nomads for decades. Surfers specifically love the epic waves at Playa Los Cerritos and La Pastora. Todos Santos grew in popularity with intrepid travelers and expats as word began to spread about its chill vibe, beaches, and cerveza shacks.

The last 10 years have seen a bit of a boom for Todos Santos, attracting visitors looking for good food, shopping, adventure, and accommodations with modern amenities.  The coastal town remains small in size – only about 16 square blocks and just under 8,000 residents. There are a total of approximately 350 rooms, all located in boutique hotels that are surprisingly not affiliated with global hotel brands. And there are shops, art galleries, indie hotels, and a swath of highly-regarded restaurants. Todos Santos possesses all the makings of a great LGBTQ+ destination.

Thriving Artists’ Colony

When the artists flocked to Todos Santos starting in the 1970s, they brought with them a Bohemian culture and vibe that’s present in the town today. Visitors can check out their work at artisan outposts, such as canvas tents, intimate galleries, and spaces tucked inside historic brick buildings along the streets in the downtown area. 

Of particular note are the Manos Mexicano gallery and La Sonrisa de la Muerte, where the work of local artists from across Baja California is featured for sale. Throughout Todos Santos, the galleries offer collectors handcrafted gifts that can fit into a backpack pocket up to large metal sculptures and landscape paintings. 

Lively Downtown

Visitors to Todos Santos will quickly realize that it is a walkable town. You cannot reach the beach by foot and hotel guests can conveniently use their hotel shuttle service or taxis for the 10-minute drive. You’ll find historic brick buildings – at most only three stories high – restored to modern standards and used as restaurants, shops, hotels, and residences.  Out-of-towners won’t find big-box retailers or recognizable brands with outlets here. Everything appears to be locally owned and operated.

One might even describe downtown Todos Santos as stylish, but not chic. You won’t see folks teetering on stilettos along these streets or flashing big watches and bling. There is a casual elegance to the place that makes Gucci slides and $10 flip-flops equally welcome.

Check out Besamé Mucho Bazaar for interesting clothing, art, and housewares. We loved Nomad Chíc and Zocalo for locally-made clothing and gift items and we stopped by Saguaro for their men’s selection of clothing, skincare products, and grooming items, including wooden combs, hair brushes, toothbrushes, and shaving brushes.

Cuisine for Days

Todos Santos is a surprisingly robust foodie destination. Yes, you can find the requisite tacos, enchiladas, and cheese-stuffed rellenos, but visitors will also find a collection of chef-driven restaurants with global appeal for their innovative menus influenced by Mediterranean and Asian flavors. We dined at several restaurants on two different trips and can vouch for these restaurateurs’ high standards in ingredients, presentation, and service.

Celebrated Mexican chef Javier Placencia’s restaurant, Jazamango, arguably has the most inventive farm-to-table menu in town. We loved the grilled octopus and roasted suckling pig. Even the cocktail program is a cut above the rest. Our favorites were the Orchard Mojito with fresh herbs from the garden, cucumber, and lemon, and the Nixta Espresso Martini with vodka, nixta corn liqueur, espresso, date honey, and cocoa.

We also recommend Dūm, nestled in an oasis of palm trees and artfully designed with hanging basket light fixtures that provide guests with a unique outdoor dining experience. The menu here is haute Mediterranean cuisine with a Mexican twist. For LGBTQ+ guests, you won’t feel alone dining here. We noticed several tables with LGBTQ+ folks enjoying their meal at this welcoming restaurant. 

Perhaps the most stunning dining experience in town, El Mirador is perched on a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. We sat outdoors and watched the sunset as we sipped artisan cocktails and dined on a delicious menu of fresh seafood and other locally-sourced ingredients. The view here is unparalleled in Todos Santos, and far worth the short ride from downtown to the ocean’s edge.

Todos Santos is becoming so well known for its food culture that it hosts several annual food and wine festivals, including the Todos Santos & Pescadero Culinary Experiences.

Secluded Beaches and Exclusive Beach Club

The beaches in Todos Santos are spectacular and unscathed by development. We stood on the sands at Playa Todos Santos while the waves crashed nearby, and not another soul was visible for at least a mile in either direction. Other secluded beaches are Playa La Cachora near the palm oasis and Puntos Lobos for a more dramatic, rocky coastline.

The best place to enjoy a private beach experience is El Faro Beach Club & Spa. Guest amenities include beachfront cabanas, hammocks, and a disappearing-edge pool with lounge chairs and a swim-up bar. With an onsite spa, outdoor massage tables, and changing rooms, El Faro beckons visitors to stay all day. And we did.

El Faro’s onsite restaurant is top-notch and serves the best ceviche we have ever tasted. It’s made with fresh shrimp, cucumber, peanuts, and spices that create a savory-sweet combo. Their fish tacos are also extraordinary. 

Live Music and Nightlife

Although Todos Santos is a mellow town, it is not devoid of nightlife. Disco queens may not find the club experience they’re looking for, but there are plenty of places to spend the evening, dance, drink, and enjoy music while watching the crowds of beautiful people. Did I mention the folks here are wonderfully good-looking? Well, the locals and visitors seem to share a certain something that most find extremely attractive. LGBTQ+ or not, the attitude here seems very accepting – and fluid.

 For live music and dancing into the wee hours, check out Plaza Amigos. Other great spots include the rooftop club Sky Lounge and Gallo Azul for fun and flirting.

Excursions Provide Heart-Pumping Thrills

If shopping and laying in the sun is not enough, there are plenty of activities to enjoy in and around the area. We had a blast riding ATVs through the Tierra Sagrada desert terrain with Cabo Adventures, a 15-minute drive south of downtown. At this location, they also offer camel rides complete with pith helmets as well as other motorized adventures for adrenaline junkies.

Further afoot, exotic water adventures can be found along the Pacific Coast. Guests can enjoy whale watching where small boats can take visitors out to get an up-close and personal view of migrating and birthing gray whales. Check out Baja Desconocida to book a tour. We loved our mind-blowing whale-watching experience, where we witnessed a mother and baby breaching right in front of us.

Just a short distance from Todos Santos, tour operators can arrange island tours, snorkeling adventures, and even an excursion to go swimming with whale sharks on the Sea of Cortez near La Paz, Mexico.  

Hotel Experiences That Won’t Break the Bank

You don’t have to have a lot of money to stay in Todos Santos. It’s pretty affordable. Hotel accommodations are available for a wide range of budgets, from a youth hostel charging $25 per night to luxury resorts with room price points up to $1,200 per night. Plenty of short-term rentals are also available if you prefer a more private experience.

We loved our stay at Guaycura Boutique Hotel Beach Club & Spa in downtown Todos Santos. Quaint and charming, the hotel is housed in a renovated brick building built in the 1800s. It was once a residence and then a school. Local art adorns the walls, including the 14 rooms and suites. Rates start at $198 per night, and the staff and guests are very LGBTQ+ welcoming.

Hacienda Todos Los Santos is a gay-friendly boutique resort with seven upscale suites within a gorgeous garden setting. Guests can lounge by the swimming pool and enjoy great views from private balconies. It’s an easy walk into town. Rooms start at $130 per night.

On the higher end, the 5-star Paradero Todos Santos’s rooms start at $470 per night. The experience is well worth the expense, as the brutalist architecture and the transcendent food and beverage program are a gorgeous contrast with its sandy desert surroundings. Many activities are included in your stay, including yoga, hikes, surf lessons, and more. The spa offerings here are also fantastic.

Will Todos Santos Become ‘Tulum West’? 

Todos Santos has all the right elements for a relaxing and adventurous visit. The landscape is undeniably beautiful – from the desert oasis to the pristine beaches that beckon travelers from around the world. With a quaint and walkable downtown, the village of Todos Santos is sure to see an increase in visitors. So, I’d recommend visiting this relatively undiscovered Mexican hamlet now to immerse yourself in its authentic vibe before commercial developers set their sights on making Todos Santos Baja’s version of Tulum.

Read about other destinations in Mexico, including the All-Inclusive Hotel Xcaret Mexico and why Mérida is becoming an attractive city for American retirees.