Trip of a Lifetime: Planetdwellers’ Inaugural LGBTQ+ Antarctica Pride Cruise
Why this Pride expedition to the “seventh continent” was beyond the bucket list.
I’m still getting WhatsApp notifications from the 70+ fellow travelers on Planetdwellers’ inaugural Pride Cruise to Antarctica, weeks after we parted and went separate ways, some of us onwards to Chile, others back home wherever that may be—from Australia to the US to the UK. I guess that’s what happens after the trip of a lifetime: you don’t really want it to end. The unique combination of extraordinary destinations, organizers, experiences, and participants is very rare. We will always share these memories for as long as we live: the unspoiled expanse that is Antarctica, the pristine vistas, the unique creatures, the friendly crew, and the sense of freedom we found in our out and proud expedition of LGBTQIA+ folks from America, Australia, Britain, and Asia—every last one of them intelligent, interesting and friendly. So let’s dive into what else made this a life-changing trip.
Why was it historic?
There have been a couple of other LGBTQ+ cruises to this part of the world, but this trip is the first Pride Expedition out of Australia, uniting explorers from both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. It’s also the first-known expedition where some of the research team were both top in their fields and members of the LGBTQIA+ community. And where an entertainer, Catherine Alcorn, performed live in Antarctic waters.
Who are Planetdwellers?
Gay-owned and operated by Mario Paez and Barry Warner, Planetdwellers is an Australian travel firm with decades of experience that offers travel characterized by unique itineraries and expertise for the LGBTQ+ traveler. When you travel or tour with Planetdwellers, you can expect a world-class effort, but don’t be surprised when you are welcomed and embraced with old-fashioned, unpretentious hospitality and unmistakable Aussie humor and charm. The vibe is friendly, warm, and fun. Traveling with Mario and Barry is more like hanging out with your favorite uncle or brother than your usual tour operator. A bonus is meeting other Aussie talent on the trip.
Cruise or expedition?
It is best described as a small ship expedition cruise—and a helluva big gay adventure! Planetdwellers’ Inaugural Pride cruise to Antarctica had all the benefits of a small luxury cruise while technically being a civic and scientific research expedition. Our favorite antipodean LGBTQ+ travel agency and tour operator chartered the unique MV Greg Mortimer ship operated by Aurora Expeditions (Aurora is one of the first operators to become an IAATO member and is committed to responsible and respectful travel to Antarctica.) To that extent, it’s not like any ‘cruise’ I’ve ever been on, probably because it wasn’t just a cruise! Visits ashore were contingent upon weather, wildlife, and other factors and came with strict biosecurity protocols so as not to contaminate the pristine landscape or endanger wildlife. It was wonderful to embrace this new form of travel, one which, ideally, is the future of responsible tourism.
Creature comforts
This medium-sized vessel had everything we needed for the two-week voyage: a lecture theater, bar, library, gym, observation deck, weather domes on the upper deck to give us an outdoor experience but protect us from icy winds, two outdoor jacuzzis, a spa and sauna, and massage rooms where I booked myself one of the best deep tissue rubs of my life (thank you, Mara).
Learn more about the custom-built MV Greg Mortimer, a state-of-the-art expedition ship with a unique Australian history:
The staterooms were terrific and large enough to live in with a good-sized double bed, bathroom, big screen TV, balcony and study nook. If you are a fan of big cruises and all their creature comforts, you won’t be disappointed with this experience—you just have to adjust to the scale of this sized vessel. During my time onboard, I did not want for anything—whether that was a decent cappuccino, a perfectly cooked steak, some seafood, or a good glass of South American wine. Or even an extra supply of anti-seasickness pills—more on that below…
The restaurant served a buffet breakfast and lunch with astounding variety and many healthy options, plus a la carte dinners in the evening with a choice for every course and wine service—simply delightful at the end of the day. It was also incredibly thoughtful to return from an icy outdoor adventure and find hot consommé waiting! After cocktails, dinner, and, OK, more cocktails, we had one of the finest and most talented cabaret entertainers out of Australia delight us with her piano bar and pitch-perfect impersonations (Bette Midler, Jennifer Coolidge). Read our interview with Catherine here.
What was the itinerary?
The journey began at the bottom of Argentina in a frontier port called Ushuaia. We stayed at Las Hayas Ushuaia Resort, a European-style property with its own majestic views of the ocean and a primordial forest out back. This is where we got to know some of our fellow expeditioners before heading out on the long sea voyage. Kicking things off was a catamaran sail of the Beagle Channel, with views of Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, sea lions, and cormorants sunning themselves on the rocky outcrops as well as petrels and albatrosses as just some of the sea birds native to the region.
It was a glorious summer’s day as we boarded the MV Greg Mortimer. Not only were we greeted by hosts Barry and Mario, waving rainbow flags; we were serenaded by sequined entertainer Catherine Alcorn in Bette Midler mode, greeted by friendly staff offering welcome drinks, and then free to inspect the vessel, take a safety briefing, and then relax, marveling at the impressive views over Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego. As we set sail the skies were blue, the seas were calm and it was an omen of all the good things to come.
The first evening was a chance to get to know our fellow expeditioners and friendly expedition team and crew at a welcome dinner to celebrate the start of our thrilling adventure to Antarctica. Those of us traveling solo were free to mix and mingle and dine with the educated and affable team, learning about their incredible expertise as geologists, biologists, diving instructors, and more. Both the company and the food were excellent!
As we commenced the Drake Passage crossing, which was to last for two days, we adjusted ourselves to the infamous rhythms of this body of water. Thankfully, our seas were relatively calm (3-meter swells) the whole way, but seasickness medication still came in handy. For me, sleeping was a dream that felt like being rocked by Mother ocean, and I dreamed vividly.
The first wildlife encounters began with the many seabirds, including majestic albatrosses and giant petrels, following the vessel and harnessing the winds with dynamic soaring. There was no more freeing feeling than standing on the deck and watching these incredible birds navigate the windiest place on earth like impeccable airplanes. And if you’ve ever wondered why seabirds follow ships, it’s not so much an omen as a way for them to find food as the fish and plankton are pushed to the surface by the vessel’s movement.
By day four, we had neared the South Shetland Islands and the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula, and of course, we raced on deck into the crisp, cold air to spot our first iceberg. From this point on, we were to find ourselves in a magical landscape of floating sculptures, some small and blue, others huge and white, and the size of houses. Silence all around, except for the sounds of wind, wildlife, and maybe the crack and rumble of a glacier carving in the distance. Ask anyone what they miss most about this trip, and I bet they will say the sheer silence of it all—and the sense of being in a vast, untouched ice amphitheater as pristine as the day the creator (whatever your beliefs) made it.
It was time to explore the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula and the South Shetland Islands in the long days ahead of us—18 hours of daylight at least. Our experienced expedition team had made countless journeys to this area and, each day, chose the best options based on the prevailing weather, ice conditions, and wildlife opportunities. First, they scouted on Zodiacs; then, we made our excursions, usually twice a day if conditions allowed. Before joining Zodiac cruises along spectacular ice cliffs, between icebergs and muddy shores, it was important to rug up. Here is some of what I wore.
On our first land expedition, our Zodiac took us from the ship to a penguin rookery, where we carefully mingled with an entire colony of waddling, cute creatures entirely unbothered by us. It was good to stretch our legs, explore pebbly beaches and climb snow-covered ridgelines to vantage points with mountains towering overhead and sapphire-blue ice-dotted oceans below.
The next couple of days unfolded like a dream: touring grounded icebergs, keeping watch for whales, following porpoising penguins as they sluiced in unison through the sapphire sea, spotting seals as they sunned themselves on pebbly coves or flat-topped bergs, and discovering brightly-painted historic huts used by scientists and researchers (many with tales of mystery attached!). Each voyage out on the Zodiacs was a unique bonding experience between expeditioners and our energetic and adventurous guides, who were able to navigate some of the narrow, dramatic straits separating offshore islands from the mainland, passing through clusters of turquoise icebergs to linger in scenic bays and spy on seals enjoying their summer vacation.
Each day on the boat was also an opportunity to experience and learn about the species that make Antarctica their summer home. Of course, the most elusive beings of the trip were the whales, who were here to feed on fluke in the southern summer. The onboard lecture was fascinating! Who knew that whales were related to hippos, and that the largest—the Blue Whale—is descended from a wolf-like ancestor who took to the ocean eons ago? Ultimately, we were lucky enough to see at least a dozen Humpback Whales from the upper deck, their shiny black backs and tails arcing to the water’s surface as they enjoyed the year’s best feeding before spending winter elsewhere when the continent freezes over entirely. We were not lucky enough to see orcas, who hunt seals in matriarchal pods. But just learning about that apex predator helped explain why the seals can be a little jittery and sea lions aggressive! We were respectful and kept our distance.
The itinerary of the trip was well-suited to both introverts and extroverts. The latter had a wild time one afternoon as Polar Plungers, leaping off the vessel to fully immerse themselves in frigid waters in the most exhilarating Antarctic baptism. Others, like myself, could take a cup of tea and peruse the countless books on Antarctic history and exploration in the library or attend lectures and learn the history of the discovery of Antarctica. A terrific lecture from Hannah covered all the usual white male explorers and their successive perilous expeditions to the continent from the 16th century to the 20th century. Still, she also included the vital role of Maori and Polynesian explorers, who were, of course, the first to discover the land, but who didn’t receive the “hero” narratives in the history books. Hannah even told us about the discovery of a female skull, which belonged to a Polynesian woman, that was found at one of the early camps. No human endeavour is without its horrors of course, and the corridors of the Greg Mortimer are in fact decorated with more compelling chapters from history so that you can continue learning as you sail.
On our last main day in Antarctica, we were blessed to go ashore on possibly the most extraordinary location I have ever visited in my life: Deception Island, a unique horseshoe-shaped oasis in the South Shetland Islands. It looks like a bay but is really the flooded caldera of an active volcano, with a large, sheltered harbor called Port Foster, accessible through a narrow channel called Neptune’s Bellows.
We climbed up the hill to Neptune’s Window and took in the most breathtaking view I have ever seen. It was a surreal experience to be in the mouth of a volcano on a steaming, volcanic beach surrounded by snow and ice. The sea lions and penguins loved their vacation in such a landscape, and I did, too!
The magic, mystery, and majesty of this trip neared its conclusion as we approached Frei Base on rocky and barren King George Island, where we were to board our flight to Punta Arenas, Chile, and our connecting flights to our onward journeys. King George Island is located at the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula in the South Shetland Islands and is one of the most remote places on Earth, as well as the windiest. A clear sky with perfect visibility was required for safe take-off and landing, and, as usual with this trip, we were blessed.
Recap of highlights
Vistas. Critters. But, oh, the people. Our gang of 71 expeditioners included representatives from every letter of the LGBTQ+ alphabet and diverse folks from all walks of life across two hemispheres. There were queer men and women of color; there were allies and bis; influencers, professionals, and lucky retirees. A few folks were traveling with their partners or friends. Most were traveling to experience a transformative trip for themselves. Lifelong connections were made on this trip. A lot of fun and silliness was had, especially at the White Lotus Party and the gorgeous dress-up on-deck BBQ, where we were treated to an extended sunset! Warmth, intelligence, and generosity were always at hand. I cannot speak highly enough of the folks I met on this trip. My gay guys, my girls, you know who you are!
The expedition team was equally extraordinary and included a historian, a geologist, an archaeologist, an ornithologist, a diving instructor, a photographer, a former architect, therapist…all expert skippers and educators. All were approachable, friendly, and knowledgeable, and absolutely unflappable. Expedition leader and naturalist Mario Placidi Spring’s unmatched enthusiasm every morning was an attitude I needed to adopt as a daily practice. I also especially admired my female skippers, Erin, Meli, and Tamsin, whose expertise and strength were fabulous to behold as we sped along in search of the elusive whale or steered through labyrinths of pack ice for that next hit of Antarctic bliss. And Hannah was family!
Our “guncles” Mario Paez and Barry Warner gave farewell speeches and tributes on our last night that brought tears to everyone’s eyes. A soak in the jacuzzi with Barry, chatting as the rosy tail-end of the sunset reflected against the diorama of mountain peaks, is one of those moments that reminded me of what LGBTQ+ travel is all about: friends sharing experiences in a safe and breathtaking environment.
Those views, though, are seared into my memory—from mountainous volcanic peaks draped in snow to black basalt crags, massive ice flows, and icebergs so neon blue they appeared lit from within.
Various awakenings: The importance of good people. The value of fine food and drink after a day of adventure. The blessing of the senses—to feel the cold bracing wind, to scan the water in search of whales, to open your eyes each day to uninterrupted views of Antarctica in all its splendor. To listen out for the creak and deep rumble of glaciers as they carve somewhere in the distance. To have been blessed with more than 200 hours of wonder in the pristine paradise of the splendid white continent. Thank you, Planetdwellers. What a trip to be proud of!
If you go
Depending on your nationality, you must acquire the relevant visa because you will be passing through Argentina, Chile, or both. This can take some time, so allow for it and follow up with your local consulate in case of delays. Don’t leave it until the last minute!
Existing protocols, including daily biosecurity procedures such as disinfecting boots when going ashore and maintaining minimum distances from wildlife, are essential to protecting Antarctica. If you are not a patient person and you have trouble following instructions, this might not be for you!
The itinerary does require a level of fitness and ability. The ship’s doctor is always available, and treatment for seasickness is provided upon request. We had the “Drake Lake,” i.e. calm, but the two-day voyage across Drake Passage makes many people ill, so be prepared for that. I was fine but I took my meds on day one.
Even if you’re fit and healthy, travel insurance is a must simply because this trip is categorized as adventure in a remote region. You will be climbing in and out of boats. You might be climbing and hiking on icy and rocky land. Things happen.
As your voyage includes charter flights, each expeditioner may travel with no more than one main piece of luggage weighing 20 kilograms or less. Aurora provides the boots for the shore excursions, as well as a polar-grade jacket for warmth, which you get to keep.
What to pack
Before you pack, ensure anything that may come into contact with the Antarctic environment, including clothing and equipment, is thoroughly cleaned and disinfected. I took mostly new outerwear—waterproof pants, boots, socks, gloves, beanie—so this wouldn’t be a problem. The inside layers are fine.
Because you will be traveling in the Southern summer, bring layers. Some days are warmer than you might expect, and other conditions are colder than you may be comfortable with. The weather can be very changeable, and in the end, that is all part of the journey.
